Part 4: Kylesku to Cape Wrath

24th May 2019

Loch Stack Wild Camp

“So you would like a highland breakfast without the highland” said the waitress when Sue had rejected haggis, black pudding and tatty scones! The couple who run the Kylesku were doing their rounds and chatting to each of their guests and consoling each table about the weather. The rain had stopped and the hills now in view, no longer were they spewing torrents from every orifice.

In half an hour we were back across the elegant Kylesku bridge and climbing on a blissfully dry track high above the confluence of Loch Glencoul and Gleann Dubh. We met a French man going North to South and exchanged advice about route and Bothies before descending to the A838. We had decided that this single track road could take us all the way to Rhiconich and avoid a potentially impassable river as well as a lot of bog. We spotted a secluded roadside camp in the trees but as soon as we started pitching the midges found us and sent us packing, a later loch-side pitch with a bit of a breeze served us much better.

Distance: 15.7km

Ascent: 500m

25th May 2019

Rhiconich Hotel

In spite of the fact we had pitched about 5 metres from the road we had another fabulous night’s sleep. The loch had receded by about a metre so water levels would be improved for walking off road but our mind was made up to road walk to Rhiconich.

I deployed the midge mask for the first time to make breakfast but a light breeze picked up and they left us in peace. We seemed to be quite invisible in our little camp site as a couple walked straight by without a glance. We caught them up and discovered they had the same plan as us, the road to Laxford Bridge was very quiet and made a pleasant stroll.

Erratics boulders left by glaciers dotted the skyline and we saw a pair of Golden Eagles soared above us being bravely mobbed by something smaller. A brief stop at Laxford Bridge brought us to the familiar road to the North Coast and we reminisced our cycle journey some years before. This section of the main road has lanes each way but, considering it is part of the ever popular North Coast 500, it was very quiet. Rhiconich hotel was closed (we thought) in 2015 when we cycled up here and as we drew nearer it’s shabby exterior did not seem to have changed. “Check in from 3pm” was written on the door but having arrived at about 12:30 we sat on a rusty bench at the front and ate cheese and oaties then put the stove on for tea. “Nice one for the album” said Sue as she was taking a picture of this soggy pathetic scene, at this point a lady came out and quickly ushered us in, maybe she heard Sue’s mention trip advisor! It transpires the the hotel has never been closed and the interior and food were in stark contrast to it’s exterior.

Distance: 14.1km

Ascent: 100m probably!

26th May 2019

Kinlochbervie B&B

Today felt like a holiday, we strolled along the road towards Kinlochbervie and were delighted to discover that The Old School Restaurant was open, so we nipped in for a second breakfast, stayed for an hour and a half then booked a table for dinner!

The rain continued harder and after a trip to the Quayside Spar shop to top up supplies, we headed for Kinlochbervie Hotel to kill another hour until we could get into our B&B. Luck struck in the evening as a group of Germans were also bound for the Old School and offered to give us a lift to save another soaking.

Distance: 8km

Ascent: 100m

27th May 2019

Sandwood Bay Wild Camp

It was Bank Holiday Monday in England so there was no better place on a sunny day than to head for the beach.

As we finally turned off tarmac at Blairmore, it was clear we were not going to be alone. Sandwood Bay has gained a reputation as one of Scotland’s finest beaches with pure white sand and an impressive sea stack first climbed in 1967 by Tom Patey and his mates. Like many prominent features in Scotland, it is called Am Buachaille (the Herdsman) presumably because it resembles a solitary figure surrounded by wisps of white waves resembling sheep. The blue water looked inviting but would only satisfy the hardiest swimmer!

In extreme winter storms, the remains of a Spitfire are supposed to be visible but the only blemish on this otherwise pristine beach is a large whale bone.

We removed our boots for the first time for a river crossing, found a perfect meadow next to Sandwood Loch and enjoyed a sunny evening. Waiting for sunset was out of the question as we have usually slept for about three hours before the sun goes down.

Distance: 13.6km

Ascent: 253m

28th May 2019

Cape Wrath Lighthouse and Bunkhouse.

After one of the coldest mornings yet, we climbed out of the bay and onto the featureless moorland.

Our first stop was to Strathchailleach, this was home to James McRory-Smith (known as Sandy) until 1996, he led a reclusive life after the tragic death of his wife and settled there for 32 years. Collecting his pension and shopping was a 26 mile round trip walk and having no possessions other than a radio, he made what he needed from the sea washed remains he found in Sandwood Bay. The Bothy was busy with some soldiers on exercise and three lads with very wet boots. We had a brief look at Sandy’s artwork on the interior walls of the Bothy before making another boots off crossing.

Before long we we were making the awkward climb over the MOD barbed wire fence to enter an area designated to live bombing during certain days of every month.

It was a bit of guess work planning a year in advance as the ministry seems to only publish one month ahead. Fortunately we were safe to proceed and small groups and individual Cape Wrath Trailers started converging as we grew nearer to the small track that runs between the Kyle of Durness and Cape Wrath lighthouse. This is the track I cycled on in 1984 and I don’t remember seeing another sole, when we arrived the battered old minibus had just arrived with a group of tourists so as well as a dozen or so walkers, there was quite a crowd in the Ozone Cafe.

We had tea and snacks, sat in the sun and watched the coming and going of people until the last bus departed leaving us alone. With just the sound of the wind, we were the only ones staying at the bunkhouse so we enjoyed a peaceful sunset to celebrate a lunar month long journey and our final goal.

Distance: 13.1km

Ascent: 374m

29th May 2019

Kearvaig Bothy

Cape Wrath means “turning point” in Old Norse, this far corner was an important milestone for early seafarers and in the same way is the stage in our journey to start heading home. We were pleased to spend the night at the lighthouse rather than tearing ourselves away immediately on a minibus back to civilisation as it has given us time to reflect on the journey and enjoy the splendid isolation. We had an odd start to the morning as we were promised breakfast at 9am but as 9 o’clock then 10 o’clock passed, it was nearly 11 when we began to wonder if we had been left truly alone. Eventually we left with just a mug of tea inside us and strolled down the track in warm sun but with a keen wind. At the first good water source we cooked and ate our penultimate supply of porridge with coffee before continuing to Kearvaig Bothy.

Small groups of camouflaged figures appeared on surrounding hills who we would later encounter at the Bothy. It is not surprising that this beautiful place had become so popular, it is set in a spectacular sandy bay bound by rugged sandstone cliffs bombarded by the great foaming breakers of the Atlantic.

This is our third night on this moorland known as the Parph which, until the highland clearances, was home to a reasonable clutch of crofting communities. The farmstead at Kearvaig was occupied for over 200 years and it is hard to imagine a more perfect place to live. As we descended the track into the bay we saw the green army tent pitched on the grass at the back of the Bothy and just as Sue had popped out to go to the loo, military vehicles and troops descended like a scene from “Where Eagles Dare”! By the end of the evening there were about 20 young Territorial Army students all wide eyed and excited at the incredible location their military manoeuvre had brought them to.

A fire and Bothy chat ended the evening and we settled in to our own room with the only view across the bay.

Distance: 9.1km

Ascent: 137m

30th May 2018

Durness- Finish.

Kyles and lochs carve the landscape of the west coast of Scotland and it is a fitting way to end this journey as we started by taking a small ferry across the water. Our legs felt heavy as we left Kearvaig bay, perhaps it was the magnetism resisting our departure or maybe fatigue from 30 days walking but in truth it was probably the 5am wake up from army boots descending the stairs from the loft room where many of the young soldiers slept!

We arrived at the ferry slipway and drank tea while waiting and before long a young ferryman beckoned us aboard. I asked if he knew who would have been running the boat in 1984, to which he said it was his father and, although he had now retired, the significantly smaller boat he used to carry just me and my bike was still seaworthy.

Our slow walk out to Durness brings to an end another great journey, the success of which comes from three elements: planning, equipment and weather. The weather was fantastic (for Scotland, just 4 days of rain in 30) and we over-engineered the planning but if Peter and June hadn’t rescued us with a stove replacement, we may not have been so happy!

The walk through some familiar and many new regions hasn’t left the feeling of “done Scotland” which is on the lips of many people we encountered but rather “where in this beautiful country shall we go to next”.

The End

Distance: 15.1km

Ascent: 333m

Part 3: Loch Broom to Kylesku

17th May 2019

Rest Day at Clachan Farm

Removing packaging from our posted food drops was becoming a familiar routine, this was our second. After having put all our clothes through a wash and successfully drying them in the garden, Marie, our host, kindly gave us a lift into Ullapool where we spent an intensive hour eating some scallops at the Seafood Shack, buying yet more oatcakes and cheese from West Coast Deli, a bottle from the An Tealach beer shop and a couple of cards from the bookshop. Ullapool remains a great asset to the West Coast.

A new complication with the stove unfolded today after conversations with Peter who is coming to meet us at Oykel Bridge with a replacement stove. An issue with new Coleman (Orange label) canisters has been buzzing around Internet forums for a while but passed me by. The problem being that these, apparently identical, gas canisters have a slight difference and don’t work on many stoves but they are the ones I have inadvertently ordered for each of our food drops!

The sun shone on Lochbroom and we ate another fine meal made by Marie.

18th May 2019

Knockdamph Bothy

In the last two days we have sat having breakfast and looking up beyond Inverlael Forest and a path leading skyward. This was our route this morning. We found a shortcut through the forest marked on the 1:25,000 maps which saved us 2km, this was a delightfully efficient climbing track, cleared by a local mountain biker who we met when we popped out on the top forest road.

Before long we were looking back at our B&B that had been our home for two days and, as the farm disappeared from sight, the track at our feet faded to dry bog. We dutifully stuck to the 520m contour as we skirted the hillside before dropping into the wide expanse of Glen Dochary and a well needed lunch stop in a cluster of old ruins.

The rain was light and persistent but we were now on a path which wound it’s way down a beautiful gorge where the river falls over faults in the limestone and creates deep inviting pools. 

Knockdamph Bothy was empty when we arrived, we set about lighting a fire from the remains of wood and kindling we could find before being joined by two others who had just started the second half of the Cape Wrath Trail.

The cloud descended and, for the first time, our hill view was removed.

Distance: 20.9km

Ascent: 241m

19th May 2019

Oykel Bridge Bunkhouse 

Our stove finally packed up this morning, after many attempts and the loss of most of the hair on my hands I considered it time to give up trying to keep it alight. The couple sharing the Bothy kindly let us use their stove with our fuel so we managed breakfast. The track to Oykel was fast and easy, we had a long stop at the  Schoolhouse at Duag Bridge, 

this is a well renovated Bothy and an ideal vantage point for Seana Bhraigh, a remote Munro, so we decided on a return visit in the future. This school was used until 1930’s, where students brought a bit of peat as well as their books each day in winter and when the rivers were in spate some of them ingeniously used stilts for crossing! Oykel Bridge hotel has stayed “old style” while other establishments have modernised, it still serves the fishing clientele but the low water levels was causing considerable consternation in the bar in the evening. They did, however, make an amazing venison curry!

Distance: 13.6km

Ascent: 254m

20th May 2019

Loch Ailsh wild camp

I put a light to the new Alpkit stove, that Peter had brought for me and a fabulous roar emanated. This is a sensation we had not experienced for nearly three weeks so it was with great excitement that we set off with our new appliance. Peter  and June accompanied us for a couple of hours up the Oykel river and we sat and ate lunch at a fisherman’s hut before parting.

With a very poor forecast and expecting heavy rain by 6pm we stopped and pitched at about 3pm but subsequently enjoyed a sunny evening beside the Loch. Each boil of water took just over three minutes instead of thirty and I was able to leave the stove without fear of it randomly extinguishing and filling the air with un-burnt gas.

Distance: 13.8km

Ascent: 270m

21st May 2019

Inchnadamph B&B

We pressed on up the salmon rich River Oykel all the way to it’s source. Skirting Loch Ailsh, we passed a grand but empty Ben More Lodge, dark clouds loomed over the bealach on our route and today was the first time we walked in consistent rain. A good scattering of orchids was about the only bright thing we saw today and we had to take great care with every foot placement. We spent the day alone as the number of others on this part of the trail seems to have dwindled, perhaps they are all doing alternatives to avoid some navigational difficulties.

After trackless rough ground to the bealach, we were given a grand view of the majestic peaks of Canisp, Suilven and Quinag. Rising out of generally low lying land, these hills all fall below 3000 feet and so are overlooked by Munroists. We finally joined one of the tracks exiting Ben More Assynt which we walked out on last year and down to “The Byre” which is a self catering style B&B and ideal for us to dry out and relax as the rain persisted against the velux windows of our loft space accommodation.

Distance: 18.4km

Ascent: 438m

22nd May 2019

Glencoul Bothy

People in Shetland would probably describe today as “blashy”, we togged up after breakfast and set out in rain that continued on and off (mostly on) all day. Our track wound it’s way into the cloud with hundreds of orchids and dozens of frogs enjoying the wet weather. We looked at each swollen stream with nervous trepidation because the river supplying Loch Coul is known to be awkward when in spate. Two ghostly shadows disappeared into the cloud ahead of us but it was some hours before we saw anyone. A group of 3 Frenchmen passed us while we paused to check the route, we passed them a little later and as we continued one came running after exclaiming that we had gone the wrong way. 

We explained that their route was to the top of on of the UK’s longest waterfalls and would be a dead end. They followed us and after overtaking again found a good point to cross the river so returned the favour. “The Eas a Chual Aluinn” cascades from a 200m cliff before dispersing in a delta of mini falls into the Glen below, it makes the falls of Glomach look like a dripping tap and this is perhaps the only time one might be glad that there has been so much rain!

Glencoul Bothy was very busy, the Frenchmen were cooking food and another group were lighting a fire with some damp wood but within half an hour they were all packing up and leaving for the next bothy at Glendhu. This is a better vantage point to get to Rhiconnich in one day but true to form we will be doing it in about 3 days!!

We shared the Bothy with a young couple and their dog, a good fire helped to partially dry our wet clothing and we chatted about life and journeys.

Distance: 18km

Ascent: 675m

23rd May 2019

Kylesku Hotel

No living thing in their right mind came out today, the orchids were there because they had to be and the frogs kept well under cover so the only fools out there were those walking the Cape Wrath Trail and slugs!

I don’t think I have seen consistent rain like this in May in Scotland, all rivers were swollen to foaming, peaty-white torrents and simple fords in the track became traumatic experiences. As we approached the head of Loch Gleann Dubh we prayed that the bridge was still there as the consequences of it not would be unthinkable. We stopped at Glendhu Bothy for some lunch and respite, the previous occupants had left a embers in the fire so Sue soon had a flame. 

The final stage was a 4x4 track on which we thought we could relax, but the extent of the rain required wading through water from gushing waterfalls so it all began to feel quite soggy! When we finally arrived at Kylesku Hotel we were dripping from every thread, our room had a separate bathroom so it was there that we dismantled ourselves so as not to cause too much damage to the room. The couple at Glencoul Bothy had decided to quit due to the weather and the constant and continuing rain led to some strategic alterations to our future route. The alternatives would be partly on road in order to avoid endless bog and potentially impassable rivers.

We had discovered the Kylesku in 2015 when we cycled the coast of Britain and so on our return we promised ourselves a good meal, so after a large amount of seafood and some alcohol, we retired to the same room we had four years ago

Distance: 18km

Ascent: 588m

Part 2: Shiel Bridge to Loch Broom

9th May 2019

Loch na Leitreach Wild Camp

With re-stocked rucksacks we left Kintail Lodge in sunshine. The temperature had risen and we caught our first glimpse of the wee beasties (midges). The old road skirted the Loch avoiding the roar of traffic on the A87, we paused to watch a couple of young seals play. As always they soon stop and watch back inquisitively. The flat road walk into Morvich got our legs warmed up again after a rest day and we were soon leaving the forest for a well made path up to Bealach na Sroine.

There was some tension all morning as the path around the Falls of  Glomach is described as dangerous with rock steps in a precarious position.

After descending to the hanging valley above the falls we saw the line of the path and after a quick snack we picked our way down past the falls to find a patch of lawn on which to pitch for the night.

Distance: 13.5km

Ascent: 646m

10th May 2019

Maol-bhuidhe Bothy

It rained for much of the night, and since it was still wet in the morning we snoozed until 10am. We eventually got going in sunshine at nearly midday, considerable snow had fallen on the tops and large numbers of deer had descended to the track passed Iron Lodge. Having seen the benefit to indigenous trees where deer have been excluded, we pondered the need for re-wilding Scotland. If wolves were to be introduced, however, we wondered if they would just gorge themselves on sheep as an easier catch.

After a steady climb over a bealach, we eventually caught site of the lone bothy in the most spectacular setting. Newly whitewashed and with a good roof, we found our own wood panelled room, there were several others staying and 2 that had brought in coal so we were pleased to have a fire for the evening.

We were surprised and amused to see a small bag of nuts with a note addressed to us. It was from Pete and Warren who we had been overlapping with in the last few days, they clearly took pity on us for our meagre rations!

Distance: 13km

Ascent: 428m

11th May 2019

Bendronaig Bothy

Maol-bhuidhe Bothy is described as a lonesome homestead, the first recorded occupants were the Renwicks in the mid 19th Century, we are staying at a B&B owned by Marie Renwick in a few days at Loch Boom- maybe her family are descendants? It was a perfect place to stay. After a clear night, the sun continued to shine for much of the morning before hail showers reminded us we were in Scotland. Some rough trackless ground skirted the south of Beinn Dronaig before picking up a stalkers path which gave us our first fine views across to the crenellated Cuillin on Skye.

The Bothy, maintained by the Attadale estate, was familiar to us and was where we had very first considered this journey, after a 38km and 2 Munro day.

We sat having our food as the sun set before lighting the wood burner to enjoy another Bothy night chatting to a couple from near Edinburgh. When they heard we were staying at Gerry’s hostel the following night they recounted amusing tales of the previous owner’s ghostly figure dressed all in white white with eccentric habits. 

We have approached this journey in a relaxed style while most others complete two or three of our days in a single stretch. It occurred to us that stoves take on the character of their owner a persistent problem with ours means it coughs and splitters it’s way to a simmer while the fast and furious Cape Wrather’s cook set roars to a fast boil.

Distance: 8.5km!

Ascent: 173m

12th May 2019

Gerry’s Hostel, Craig

The most glorious morning awaited us with clear blue sky, zero wind and not a midgie to be seen. The huge road building in the Attadale estate for the hydroelectric schemes have left their mark so we were glad to get off the large gravel tracks and up passed Loch na Laoigh where an excellent stalkers path took us much of the way to Bealach Bearneas.

At the pass, we passed under 2 Munros we were still to climb before descending to a new vista of the Torridon hills. The hostel is now run by Gerry’s son Simon who welcomed us with some much needed food for the evening as well as provisions for future wild camps. We sat listening to Eric Sati on vinyl in this quirky hostel with a lamp shade made from a washing machine drum. I read a great article by Hamish Brown  mountaineering writer and first to complete all the Munros in a single journey using only bicycle and ferry. He wrote about Bothy’s and in Knoydart he said he made repeated attempts to get Ordinance Survey to remove a bridge symbol on the map of Knoydart as it was giving walkers false hope in crossing the River Carnach. After repeated requests, someone from OS eventually went out to verify his claim and the bridge marker was subsequently removed from future maps. A few years later someone built a bridge, which has now washed away! You could have some fun at OS’s expense I think.

Distance: 17.4km

Ascent: 526m

13th May 2019

Kinlochewe Bunkhouse

We chatted to Simon over a rather unorthodox breakfast of sausage roll and tinned macaroni cheese. He mentioned that Hamish Brown was booked to stay- I assume he and Gerry, Simon’s dad were mates, he then pointed out that many of the records on the shelf once belonged to Hamish, sure enough most of them were marked up “HB”.

A brief encounter with the A890 brought us to the old pony track up to Coulin Pass. This route was used by James Hogg, poet and novelist during his tour of the highlands in 1803. Once on the big forestry roads we were able to settle in to a good pace and admire the unfolding scene of the Torridon hills and beyond, first the mass of Liathach, Beinn Eighe and then Slioch.

A lot of the forest we have passed is going the through a big transformation, not just felling for cash but a 200 year vision to remove the lucrative conifers, fencing to keep out the deer and let the land return with native species. The stark contrast in vegetation in and outside the fencing is remarkable and it is a credit to the group’s that are working on this project.

After a day striding on big tracks, the last 2km wound it’s way through woodland but took forever, these last 2 days are not the normal route for Cape Wrath Trailers, in fact we have seen no others as most go through the Torridons it was nice for us to grab a new view of these familiar peaks.

Distance: 17.5km

Ascent: 478m

14th May 2019

Lochan Fada Wild Camp

Yesterday we sat in the sun by a river and tried to work out how many lunches we needed to carry after Kinlochewe- such is the burden of decision making! The store and Post Office had everything we needed  so we set of this morning with a much heavier load. It was the warmest day so far and as the broad track faded to path, the “Fisherfield Six” came into view.

These unfamiliar peaks comprise of 5 Munros and a Corbett and is in an area described by Wainwright as The Great Wilderness. We meandered in to the eastern end of Lochan Fada, set up camp at about 2:30pm and and soak up the splendour of our position.

This must be the most perfect campsite yet, arriving early gave us plenty of time to have a dip in the loch before cooking and watched the glorious sunset unfold behind Slioch. Today was half way in terms of days.

Distance: 12.9km

Ascent: 405m

15th May 2019

Shenaval Bothy

Another very hot day, we had a fantastic sleep and didn’t get going until nearly 10. We encountered a hare in amongst the peat bogs, it sat motionless pretending we couldn’t see it before scampering off. The short climb to the Bealach na Croise was punctuated with a stop at a waterfall complete with infinity pool!

Each stop is made longer by our desire to remove boots and socks to bathe and cool our feet, we don’t particularly have any problems now but the renewed feeling of freshness when we set off again is great- this was a 3 “boot-off stop” day! Shenaval seemed to take a long time arriving but was worth the wait, this justifiably popular Bothy is in a stunning location. We started to have concerns about the occupants we would encounter when footprints gave way to horse hooves and bicycle tyres but when we arrived there were just Munroists and Cape Wrathers. The hut book revealed the story behind the horses as the previous day had seen 3 riders with one pack horse, they had slept comfortably that night but woke the following day to find their horses had decided to make their own way home leaving the riders with saddles but without horses! They did, however, make candles from deer fat- that would have been an interesting group to talk to in the Bothy. Our self-sufficiency on this trip pales to insignificance compared to the MacDonalds who were the first residents in 1891. They grew vegetables, fished in the Loch, took venison from the hills and only twice a year went off to buy fuel, tea and sugar. There is such a great sense of history when walking in these hills and seeing the ancient dwellings, on days like these it must have felt like a true paradise but must have been a harsh existence for much of the year.

Today we reached halfway by distance, about 200km.

Distance: 15km

Ascent: 288m

16th May 2019

Clachan Farm B&B, Loch Broom

We woke to a leaden sky and a good few midge, rain was forecast for later so we made an unusually early departure of 8am. We climbed the track at the back of Shenaval and as we rounded the shoulder of Sail Liath the true splendour of An Tealach emerged.

Sue recalled her ascent of this giant and having to apply a one handed Bowline knot on a particularly tricky section. The muggy start gave way to a cooler breeze as we ascended and 2 lofty traverses gave us great vistas of the hills we have passed and those yet to come. With the aid of 1:25,000 maps on our phone, we found a sneaky descent to Loch Broom and avoided an otherwise unpleasant descent. The rain never arrived and the sun shone, we settled into our B&B where Marie, our host cooked us the most amazing meal.

Distance: 17.9km

Ascent: 718m